Zucchini Days of Summer, Part 2

Anticipating a bumper crop of zucchini from the moment we planted our starts, I spent the late spring / early summer evenings scouring cookbooks for likely recipes.  I marked so many that now it’s just a project of choosing between them.  For Part 2 of this continuing series, I chose zucchini fritters.

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These were sticky, but pretty easy to assemble, being simply a mix of shredded zucchini, onion, some herbs, and flour.  The fritters in this photo look remarkably like cheddar cheese, but that is actually yellow zucchini, which is part of the reason for this sequence of posts.  We thought we were purchasing one zucchini plant (green) and one crookneck summer squash plant.  However, the yellow squashes ended up looking suspiciously like… guess what… zucchini!  And indeed, that is what they are.  Two zucchini plants = more creative zucchini recipes for me.

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With the fritters delicately molded, I scooped them gently into a big pan of shimmering olive oil to fry (not to toot my own photography-skills horn, but I love how you can see the texture of the olive oil in the pan in this photograph.  When recipes elusively call for adding the food when the oil is “shimmering,” I’m pretty sure this is a textbook example of what they mean).  With the oil only about ¼ inch deep and nice and hot before adding the victims, they didn’t absorb too much.

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After a brief drain on paper towels, I stacked them all up on a plate, added crumbled feta cheese and finely grated parmesan cheese to the top, and served hot.  The hotter the better, I think.

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You can see the texture here: the onion and flour made these fritters reminiscent of latkes, although the flavor was definitely zucchini, with the sharp greenness of the chopped herbs and the salty tang of the feta and parmesan.  They were crispy but still moist, and despite it being our third zucchini dish in two weeks, there were no leftovers.

Zucchini Days of Summer, Part I

It’s that time.  The days are warm (mostly), the skies are blue (except when they’re cloudy, this is Oregon, after all), and the zucchini are swelling and ripening and filling up the garden with all the grace and timeliness of an animated stubbed toe.

Alright, I confess, that’s not quite fair.  I do like zucchini.  I’m just discovering, as a first time gardener, how right everyone is about how creative you have to be, and how strong the potential is to get sick of it.  So in case you find yourself in similar straits, I’ll share some of my zucchini ambitions with you in what will most certainly be a multi-part series.

Part I is pretty simple: zucchini and mushroom pizza.  I like a simple “sauce” on my Boboli crust; just olive oil, garlic (or garlic powder, depending on how tired I’m feeling), dried Italian seasoning, and salt and pepper.  I topped this with a layer of Monterey jack cheese, and then stacked up thin slices of yellow zucchini and thick slices of crimini mushroom until you could barely see the cheese underneath anymore.  Then I added another thin layer of cheese, some leftover crumbles of feta, and a collection of cherry tomatoes, carefully inserted between vegetables to hold them securely in place.  Then, just for an added flourish, I sprinkled the whole thing with chopped chives.  Eleven or twelve minutes in the oven, and the veggies are cooked, the cheese is melted and bubbly, the cherry tomatoes are just starting to burst their skins, and dinner is served.

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Homegrown Feast

Michael Pollan, author of “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” and “In Defense of Food” (the latter of which is on my wish list, if anyone is so inclined…) has written a New York Times article about the upcoming movie “Julie & Julia,” the show “The Next Food Network Star” and the network from which it springs, and about food and the American mentality for it in general.  He considers why food, and cooking, have become spectator sports instead of daily endeavors, and concludes that a combination of increasing work hours, ever advancing kitchen technologies, and endlessly multiplying availability of quick and easy processed foods, are leading us out of the kitchen.  However, speculating that the instinctive, reptilian parts of our minds that are always subconsciously searching for sustenance are attracted by the appearance of food being made, we like the Food Network with its fancy presentations, competitive cooking shows, and analyses of restaurants.  Though this does not surprise me about American society in general, I am trying to set myself apart from this norm.  Hence the blog, the backyard garden, the subscriptions to cooking magazines… I try to pick up techniques and inspirations from Food Network shows, though I do admit to sometimes just enjoying watching someone else do the cooking.  However, today was something of a proud moment, considering Pollan’s article, which I read shortly after lunchtime.  Today each one of my meals included something homemade or homegrown.

For breakfast I feasted on toast topped by pluot-raspberry jam, lovingly preserved by a friend and colleague.  It was glossy and thick and sweet-tart with lumps of fruit inside, my favorite way.  I like my jams and preserves to still resemble the fruits they once came from, so they feel a little more real.

Lunch was one of my favorite summertime meals.  In celebration of our first full size ripe tomato (we’ve had great luck with the sungold cherries so far, but the big tomatoes are blushing only grudgingly), I picked it, carved it into thick slices, and had myself a juicy, creamy, yummy tomato sandwich.  I like my bread toasted, with mayonnaise on both sides to hold in the seeds and tender flesh of the tomato.  That’s all.  Ungarnished.  Unfancy.  Fresh and delectable.

Dinner was a big triumph.  At my best estimate, about 70% of our dinner came from either my garden, or our neighbor’s.  Armed with cherry tomatoes, a few yellow pole beans, green onions, basil, and oregano from my yard, and a cucumber accompanied by a zucchini practically the size of a T-ball bat from our neighbor’s garden, I went to work.  I blanched the beans since a few of them were quite long and I was afraid they would be tough, before combining them with the halved sungolds, sliced cucumber, and a cup or two of defrosted frozen corn.

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I tossed these with a really simple vinaigrette of just red wine vinegar, some sugar, and a touch of olive oil.  Salt, pepper, and a small handful of julienned basil, and the salad was done.  I set it aside to marinate while I fixed the main event.

The zucchini was so big that I knew the seeds would be fully developed, so I sliced the monster in half lengthwise and scooped out the seeds, leaving the flesh behind.  I added salt, black pepper, and a little olive oil to the flesh before placing the halves in a roasting pan.  Per a distantly related recipe I found in a vegetarian cookbook, I added a little water to the roasting pan and slapped some aluminum foil over the top before letting them cook for about fifteen minutes, just to start softening up the flesh.  Meanwhile I mixed up the filling.  After finely chopping the green onions and oregano from the garden, I mixed them into some goat cheese along with garlic powder and Penzey’s Black and Red pepper mix that I particularly like.  When the zucchini halves finished their steam, I took them out, filled them with the cheese mixture, and topped them with considerable mounds of fresh white bread crumbs.  Then it was back into the oven for another 25 minutes, when the bread crumbs were suitably golden for my taste.

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When they came out, we cut off thick slices and ate them with the salad as a side.  The zucchini flesh was tender but still had some texture to it, and I was surprised to find that the skin was not a bit bitter.  The goat cheese lent a tangy flavor that was, surprisingly, not so strong that it overpowered the vegetable.  The bread crumbs were a nice touch, adding a crunchy texture and toasty flavor to the dish.  I think when I make this again (our own zucchini promise that I will), I may add some lemon juice or another acidic flavor to the cheese mixture.  I generally like my vegetables with lemon, and the goat cheese has a unique tartness that leads me to believe it would pair well with a squeeze of citrus.

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Feeling like a ecologically, environmentally, locally responsible citizen of the world, I can’t help but feel a twinge of longing for ice cream… packaged, processed, hermetically sealed… but maybe I’ll settle for a homebaked blueberry struesel bar instead.

Shots of Summer

Just a few quick shots to remind us that summer has finally arrived.  I’m proud to say that some of this produce is from my own tiny backyard garden plot!

Soft, sweet, whole bulbs of roasted garlic:IMG_0768

Cherries from the Saturday Market, tart and taut:

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Lunch one weekday – spicy stir-friend rainbow chard with half a wheat bagel:IMG_0939

Snap pea, squash blossom, and nasturtium risotto:IMG_1063

Goodies from Sweet Life Patisserie – I love the hand-painted look of the tiny flowers on the square of chocolate:

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Ravioli

What does one make with half a package of wonton wrappers slowly succumbing to freezer-burn, a yard full of fragrant spearmint, and a package of cherry tomatoes?

Homemade ravioli.

A few months ago, during that first spell of beautiful heat, N. and our friend S. and I went to the annual Friends of the Eugene Library booksale.  Amidst nerdy volumes, I found two glorious, inexpensive cookbooks, and it was from a volume called “Everyday Epicurean” that I found the recipe for this simple and really quite delish ravioli concoction.
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The filling combines crumbled feta cheese, cream cheese, herbs, and the magic ingredient: a small pickled jalapeño pepper.  After a whirl in the food processor, half a tablespoon of filling gets mounded in the center of a square wonton wrapper, which you fold into a triangle after moistening the edges with water.  Stow your raviolis safely on a WELL-FLOURED cookie sheet while you finish producing the batch.

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I stuck mine in the refrigerator for a few hours before dropping the delicate little stuffed triangles into a boiling pot, though the recipe didn’t call for this.  While the little darlings boiled, I mixed up the sauce, which consisted mainly of cherry tomatoes and mint, just barely heated up in a sauté pan with some hot olive oil.  Since my tummy doesn’t do well with heavy processed tomato sauces, this was near perfect for me.

The result was heavenly.  The raviolis stuck together a little bit while I was pulling them out of the pot, and one or two of them may have leaked a little bit (the water was pretty cloudy by the time they were done), but it didn’t seem to matter.  Unlike the usual frozen variety we depend on in a pinch, the wonton skins were ultra-thin and delicate, and tasted more like restaurant fare than the quick fix from the freezer section.  The filling was creamy and rich, but not overpoweringly so, as the sharp bite from the pickled jalapeño inside and the sweet acidic tang from the tomatoes outside cut through the potentially cloying velvet of the cheese.  Served up with a toaster-oven broiled slice of romano-garlic toast, this was completely worth the effort of creating all those little packages.  Maybe the cliché about good things is true after all.

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